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Mumm Champagne
Aging : (Required Rest): The aging of wines in cellars is very regulated.
Legally, aging must be for 15 months after bottling for non-vintage Champagne
and for 3 years after bottling for vintage Champagnes.
Alcoholic fermentation or the first fermentation: The juice is transformed into
wine during this fermentation stage, held at a constant temperature of 20°C to
preserve the aromas. The sugar of the grape is transformed by the action of the
yeast into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The white wine obtained is "still," that
is, without bubbles, and contains 11° of alcohol by volume. At this point, the
wine is known as a clear wine.
Aromas: volatile compounds that are perceived directly in the nasal cavity by
smelling or indirectly from the throat when ingesting. The first immediate
impressions are known as "first nose," arising from primary variety fragrances.
Secondary aromas arise from fermentation, and tertiary aromas from aging.
Aromas are referred to as being either young or mature. Aromas often evoke
comparisons, with flowers or fruit often cited (citrus and red fruits, apricots,
pears, etc.), but also the nature of the soil, as well as honey, coffee, toasted
bread, brioche, or nuts.
Assemblage, assembly: see Blending
Autolysis :
After fermentation, the dead yeast cells form a deposit and slowly decompose.
Wines in contact with these deposits acquire complexity in their aromas in a
process called autolysis. Bottles are regularly checked to ensure correct
evolution of the wine, which becomes effervescent in the process.
Blending: the combining or mixing of several wines of different origins (growths
and varieties) in order to produce a cuvée.
B
Blending: the combining or mixing of several wines of different origins (growths
and varieties) in order to produce a cuvée.
Primary objective:
Maintain an identical style and quality of Mumm wines from one year to the next.
Come rain, sleet, hail, or high water, the House of Mumm puts its signature on
cuvées of irreproachable quality and unwavering identity every year. This
constancy of taste is due to the science of our Cellar Master's savoir faire and
intuition: the art of blending.
A palette of growths and grape varietals:
The Cellar Master can select up to 50 different growths, depending on the cuvée
he wishes to obtain. His choices are made much as an impressionist painter would
make them, based on the fine nuances they bring as functions of their varietals
(Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier) and their precise geographic
origins.
First tasting
This first encounter with the wine is all the more crucial since it will serve
as the reference for the entire process of blending. The Cellar Master observes,
smells, and tastes each of the growths selected, and carefully notes his
assessments of all sensations with infinite precision.
Analysis of assessments
The art of a Cellar Master hardly stops with tasting and assessing. More
important yet is the study of his notations, a long analysis and then synthesis
of those assessments. Since the tastes of the different growths vary from
harvest to harvest, he has to totally reconstruct tastes growth by growth, based
on his detailed assessments. From this, he begins to form a very precise idea of
the proportions which will yield the perfection of the House style, enabling a
definitive selection of the wines which will become a part of the composition of
the cuvée.
First blends and choice of the cuvée
After several months of patient reflection, from January to April to be exact,
the Cellar Master makes up a selection of three blends for each cuvée. It is
within this selection that the specific blend, the standard of reference, will
be chosen for the different cuvées of the year.
Blending vats
At Mumm, two enormous vats are used to ensure faultless regularity, since they
make it possible to prepare the equivalent of 1.2 million bottles in precise
proportions. The artistry of tasting coupled with sufficient physical means
ensure the constancy of Mumm's cuvées.
Reserve wines
The years which produce great harvests are divine destiny. For this reason, a
portion of those harvests is "reserved" for later use in blending with wines
which do not qualify as vintage year wines, in proportions which vary depending
on the year and its weather conditions.
What constitutes a Vintage Year?
When a particular harvest proves to be truly exceptional (for example in 1985,
1988, 1989, 1990, and 1995) the decision is taken to produce a vintage year: the
blend will include only wines from that specific year's grape harvest. For this
reason, vintage year wines are all different from each other, as opposed to
cuvées which are not identified as a vintage of a specific year and whose
compositions are carefully studied precisely to guarantee constancy of taste
over time.
All "Bruts" are not the same
The classic dry Champagnes, the "Bruts," are the results of blends of the three
authorized grape varieties. The brut Blanc de Noir wines are made up of Pinot
Noir and Pinot Meunier blends. On the other hand, only the Chardonnay grape
variety enters into the composition of Brut Blanc de Blancs, such as Mumm de
Cramant.
Blending vats: At Mumm, two enormous vats are used to ensure faultless
regularity, since they make it possible to prepare the equivalent of 1.2 million
bottles in precise proportions. The artistry of tasting coupled with sufficient
physical means ensure the constancy of Mumm's cuvées.
Bottles:
Quarter bottle 187.5 ml
Half-bottle 375 ml
Bottle 750 ml 1 bottle
Magnum 1.5 liters 2 bottles
Jeroboam 3.00 liters 4 bottles
Réhoboam 4.50 liters 6 bottles
Mathusalem 6.00 liters 8 bottles
Salmanazar 9.00 liters 12 bottles
Balthazar 12.00 liters 16 bottles
Nabuchodonosor 15.00 liters 20 bottles
The bottles best adapted to Champagne, as for all great wines, are the standard
bottle and the Magnum.
The large-capacity bottles are fragile and difficult to displace, to cool, and
to serve, but they are indeed spectacular!
Mumm Cordon Rouge is available in these bottles. The quarter bottles are
reserved for airlines.
Bottle fermentation (formation of bubbles): After the bottles are filled, they
are taken down to cellars carved out of the chalk where they are stacked
horizontally on "lattes" at a constant temperature of 10°C. It is at this point
that the second fermentation begins, lasting on average two months. The yeast
gradually turns the sugars into alcohol (reaching 11 to 12°) and carbon dioxide,
leaving a deposit as the yeast dies. This phase, known as the formation of
bubbles is crucial for obtaining high quality Champagne, as it determines the
finesse of the bubbles that later will grace a Champagne flute.
Bottling: In the Spring which follows the harvest, the wine is drawn off from
the vats and bottled. At this point it remains a "still" wine. It will acquire
its effervescence through a second fermentation, which will take place directly
in the bottle. Prior to that, preparation is required: it is mixed with a
precise proportion of sugar (24g per liter) and yeasts in mixing vats. Once
filled, the bottles are closed with a hollow plastic stopper placed in the neck
of the bottle, held into place by a crown cap.
Brut: a term applied to the driest cuvées, those with a dosage of less than 15 g
of sugar per liter. The term applies to the majority of champagnes.
Budding: the removal of excess buds.
Bubbles: Capricious is the word for champagne's effervescence. It can be upset
by almost nothing at all: a glass that is too cold, soap film, a noticeable odor
(wax on the cupboard, for example) and the bubbles disappear. Their delicacy is
a sign of quality, and to ensure that they persist, glasses should be washed in
clear fresh water and dried with a lint-free cloth. Serving champagne is a
detail-oriented art! But don't be surprised if certain champagnes produce few
bubbles: this is often the case for Brut champagnes at the height of their
maturity, that is, those wines which have aged for over 5 years in cellars.
C
Cellars : an endless labyrinth
Opting for a three or five-year aging period implies keeping up to five years'
worth of harvests in the cellars, a very considerable storage capacity indeed!
The cellars of G.H. Mumm are carved out of the strata of subsoil chalk of the
Reims region, and consist of 25 kilometers of galleries where over 25 million
bottles are resting in darkness and coolness, in complete calm at a constant
temperature of 11-12°C.
Cellar Master:
The responsibility for wine making and for the choice of wines used in the
different blending is the prerogatives of the Cellar Master. He is the one who
tastes and evaluates the different growths, formulates the associations of the
wines, and finally evaluates the quality of each of the resulting cuvées. The
consistency of taste is the product of the Cellar Master's art.
Champagne:
The Champagne vineyards are strictly defined by law. Only grapes coming from the
defined zone can legally be used for Champagne production.
The champagne vineyards begin 120 km to the east of Paris and extend over an
area of 35,000 hectares, of which 30,493 hectares are planted. The three
principal wine-growing areas are:
- la Grande Montagne de Reims, located to the south-south east of Reims and
rising to 300 meters in altitude,
- la Vallée de la Marne, near Epernay,
- la Côte des Blancs, to the south of Epernay, which owes its name to the
predominance of the white grape, Chardonnay.
Other vineyards in the adjoining Aube and around Château-Thierry complete the
picture.
The Champagne vineyards are comprised of 312 different growths (crus),
corresponding to the 312 different villages located within the demarcated zone.
Wine grapes have been grown in the Champagne region since the end of the third
century A.D. Up to the 17th century, only white, rosé, and red still wines were
produced. Known for their quality, they were nevertheless very different from
the Champagne we know today. The wines bore the names of the villages in which
they were produced: Ay wine, for example.
According to legend, the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon (1639-1715) was the first
to master the art of champagne making. His research enabled him to produce an
effervescent wine of outstanding quality, the forerunner of today's Champagne.
Around the end of the 17th and at the beginning of the 18th century, the
effervescent wine became true Champagne, thanks to several factors which came
into play:
Increasing awareness of the unique characteristics of Champagne and developing
interest in the "foam,"
Technical innovations, including gentle pressing, production of white wines from
black grapes, utilization of stronger bottles made in England, and utilization
of higher quality corks from Spain.
The first Champagne House was founded in 1729, and in the following year
Champagne was introduced at the French Court.
Confirmation of success came in the 19th century with the foundation of 21
Champagne Houses and a dramatic increase in production - which multiplied
100-fold between 1800 and 1890, from 300,000 bottles to 30 million.
At the instigation of these Houses, important technological improvements were
made in the process of making Champagne:
1806: turning, or riddling bottles neck-down on racks 1844: development of a
dosage and rinsing machine
1820: disgorging "in flight" 1865: Pasteur's research on yeast and natural
ferments
1825/27: bottles filled by machine 1884: disgorging frozen sediment
1828: invention of the glucose meter
However, in 1892 the vineyards of Champagne, like all vineyards throughout
Europe, were devastated by phylloxera, an insect that attacks the roots of
vines.
As a result, vines had to be uprooted and replanted as grafts on rootstock
native to America that was resistant to this terrible scourge.
In 1927 the official champagne appellation zone was formally defined as well as
the specific cultivation and wine making methods.
1941 saw the creation of the C.I.V.C. (Comité Interprofessionel du Vin de
Champagne), a semi-public organization grouping together both producers and
merchants to guarantee the respect of the appellation regulations and to defend
common interests.
After recovering from the ravages of the two world wars, Champagne has enjoyed a
period of great prosperity, with sales growing from 50 million bottles in 1960
to nearly 300 million in 1998.
Chardonnay (lightness and elegance):
Chardonnay is a white grape, famous also for the great white wines of Burgundy.
When Champagne is produced only from Chardonnay grapes, it is called a "Blanc de
Blancs," such as Mumm de Cramant. Mainly concentrated in the Côte des Blancs,
Chardonnay grapevines represent 27% of the total champagne vineyard, and 49% of
the area ranked as Grands Crus. Because Chardonnay buds early, it is
particularly susceptible to Spring frosts, and it requires a great deal of sun
to mature well. Chardonnay is a quality grape variety, giving the wine finesse,
elegance, and lightness.
Climate: A mixture of oceanic mildness and continental rigor. Champagne is the
northern-most vineyard in France (at 49° N, the vineyards are at the northern
limit of vine growing areas).
The average annual temperature in Champagne is 10°C, the limit for grape
growing. Below this level, the grapes do not mature.
Rainfall is average (670 mm), but the number of rainy days is high (171), and
they are spread out more-or-less evenly over the year.
Annual sunshine is only 1,550 hours. At its maximum during July and August, it
allows the grapes to ripen evenly.
Spring frosts: from April to May, nighttime temperatures can drop down as far as
-5 to -6°C, destroying the young buds on the vines. The result is important crop
losses, as in 1981, 1990, and 1991. Since 1951 Mumm has made large investments
in protection against Spring frosts, and has perfected the Haltogel heating
systems.
Abrupt changes in temperature during the flowering period can lead to
thunderstorms and hailstorms which can wipe out the most promising of harvests.
Paradoxically, these difficult conditions contribute to the production of
quality grapes and wines of great finesse.
Cordon Rouge: a sash, 120-years long
In every category of product, anyone can spontaneously cite one, two, or three
names which are product symbols. In Champagne, Mumm Cordon Rouge is one of those
names, if not the first, thanks to its strong identity.
The label and seal of Mumm Cordon Rouge are doubly unique in the annals of
Champagne marketing.
First, no other presentation is so representative of its product universe and
the image that is associated with it. Secondly, the label and seal of Mumm
Cordon Rouge have remained practically unchanged over twelve decades, defying
fashions and crossing generations, becoming over time the symbol of the House
and of all of its communication throughout the world. In 1875, forty-six years
after the House was founded, the agent of Mumm in Paris suggested, in order to
pay his respects to certain of his good clients, that a special label and seal
be created in their honor for bottles of Mumm Champagne. Since it was a question
of honoring prestigious clients, why not decorate these bottles with what is the
highest among honors: the Grand Cordon of the Légion d'Honneur!
Well before their time, marketing and packaging had already made their
appearances at Mumm. It was thus that bottles girded with real red satin ribbons
made their appearance in the range of Champagnes, on which an oval label was
stuck with the simple mention "Cordon Rouge G.H. Mumm & Cie à Reims."
The Cordon Rouge brand was born, becoming certainly the first trademark created
in Champagne still in use today.
Earlier, the notion of a product range was a bit hazy. Even the word "Champagne"
was little used until the Second Empire, and very often followed by descriptive
terms such as "Great Sparkling Wine" or "Crémant."
From 1881, with the growing popularity of Cordon Rouge, the red sash became an
integral part of the label, which would change only very little from then on.
Mumm returned to the real red ribbon in 1991 when it launched its prestige cuvée
"Grand Cordon," whose label and seal were almost identical reproductions of
those on the first bottle of Cordon Rouge in 1875. For over a century the label
of Mumm Cordon Rouge has remained practically unchanged. Little modifications
were made over time in the printed messages, the signature, and the Mumm logo,
but these evolutions were made without revolution in order to conserve all of
the distinctive and exclusive identity of the Mumm Cordon Rouge label and seal,
preserving its elegance and prestige.
The reputation and elegance of the Mumm Cordon Rouge label and seal have become
such that since the very beginning Cordon Rouge has always been spontaneously
associated with a great number of situations which evoke Champagne, celebration,
refinement, elegance, and the joie de vivre. The famous bottle with its red sash
has often been associated with the great film stars (Bogart and Bergman in
Casablanca, etc.) and even the "cult heroes" of the comic books such as Tintin
or …Astérix!
The presentation of Cordon Rouge is more than a simple label. In the universe of
Champagne, it has become a true symbol, the emblem of a trade name, and the
synonym of savoir-faire and of a tradition.
Both vehicle of the image and ambassador of the House of Mumm and its whole
range of Champagnes, Cordon Rouge has in addition always been the thread in
terms of advertising communication.
Côte des Blancs:
Thus called because it produces Chardonnay almost exclusively, the Côte des
Blancs is a ridge perpendicular to the Montagne de Reims and located to the
south of Epernay. It includes 6 "Grands Crus Classés" rated at 100% on the scale
of growths: Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, and Oiry.
Cultivation calendar:
Pruning 15 November / 30 March
Training New shoots are attached to wires 15 March / 1st May
De-budding Removal of excess buds May / June
Training Shoots are held vertically between 2 wires June / July
Flowering June / early July
Topping and trimming Shoot ends are topped off to remove the buds and trimmed to
remove leaves which could create shadows June / August (several times)
Treatment Vines receive protection against insects and fungi May / end August
Harvest Mid September /
mid October
Cuvée :
1) The juice from the first pressing. Regulation limits the production of 4,000
kg of grapes to 2,050 liters of juice. This juice is the richest in sugar, has
the most acid, and is the best. It will be used as the basis for the best
Champagnes.
(See pressing).
2) The wine obtained after blending, i.e. wine ready to be tasted.
(See blending).
D
Decanting : After fermentation, the wine is transferred from one vat to another
in order to separate it from the dead yeast and solid particles, the lees, which
could modify the taste. The resulting "clear wine" is then ready for blending.
(See malolactic fermentation)
Decanting: After the second fermentation, the wine is transferred from one vat
to another in order to separate out the dead yeast and solid particles, the
lees, which are likely to modify the taste of the wine. The wine thus obtained,
called " clear wine," is ready for blending.
Disgorging:
In flight…or on ice
The wine imprisoned in the bottle is subjected to very high pressure. This
pressure can be utilized to eliminate the sediment deposited in the neck of the
bottle in an operation called disgorging. Traditionally, disgorging is done "in
flight:" the bottle is slowly brought to an upright position and the stopper
removed at the precise time that the bubble of air arrives at the deposit of
sediment. The gas under pressure expels the stopper and the deposit at the same
time.
At Mumm, this method is now used only for the large-capacity bottles.
For the standard bottles, the necks of the bottles are plunged in to a
water-glycol solution, leading to the freezing of the deposit in the plastic
stopper. The bottles are then righted and, when the crown cap is removed the
stopper containing the frozen deposit is expelled by the internal pressure.
Mumm has two modern disgorging lines. One is reserved for the disgorging of 75
cl bottles and the other for bottles that are not standard (Magnum, Mumm de
Cramant, Grand Cordon, etc.).
A question of dosage:
The Champagne is then almost ready. All that is required is to add wine to
compensate for that which was driven out with the deposit - topping-up - and to
add dosage: a mixture of cane sugar and Champagne reserve wine. The quantities
of dosage added determine the nature of the Champagne:
Extra-brut 0 to 6 g per liter
Brut 5 to 15 g per liter
Extra dry 12 to 20 g per liter
Sec 17 to 35 g per liter
Medium dry 33 to 50 g per liter
Dry >50 g per liter
Dosage :
This operation consists of adding to champagne, before its "consignment to the
cellars," a liquor known as a "dosage," made up of cane sugar and Champagne or
champagne reserve wine, to compensate for the wine expelled with the deposit at
the time of disgorging.
The quantities of dosage added determine the nature of the Champagne:
Extra-brut 0 to 6 g per liter
Brut 5 to 15 g per liter
Extra dry 12 to 20 g per liter
Sec 17 to 35 g per liter
Demi-sec 33 to 50 g per liter
(See disgorging)
F
Flowering :
Flowers: Flowering takes place in mid-June and lasts 15-18 days on average. At
this time, the vine is at its most vulnerable: all it takes is rainy weather,
misty, or cold weather to interrupt the flowering and compromise the entire
harvest. The consequences fall into two general categories:
"Millerandage," or partial crop failure: poorly-fertilized berries remain small,
leading to an important loss of volume
Flower abortion: unfertilized berries fall off - in bad years up to 60%, leading
to even greater losses.
Foujita:
Captivated by excellence, G.H. Mumm & Cie has always associated itself with all
that promotes the expression of beauty and perfection. Many artists have been
inspired by the famous Champagne: Utrillo, Yves Brayer, Terechkovitch,
Chapelain-Midy, Jean Carzou, or Michael Huggins have immortalized Cordon Rouge,
each in his own style.
But it is with the painter Foujita that the association of the House of Mumm
with the arts was carried furthest. In 1958, President Rene Lalou turned to
Foujita for the design of the Cordon Rosé label and seal.
The famous "Rose of Champagne" was born, further reproduced on the bottles of
Cordon Rouge Olympic Vintage, introduced by Mumm at the time of the Olympic
Games of Tokyo in 1964.
One year after this first collaboration, this painter of Japanese extraction was
to be deeply moved by a visit to the Cathedral of Rheims, where a mystical
revelation led to his conversion to Catholicism. His godfather, Rene Lalou, had
a chapel built for him close to the Hotel Mumm. In 1966, at the age of eighty,
Foujita decorated the walls of "Our Lady of Peace" with frescos of dazzling
freshness. They evoke the Old and the New Testament, without forgetting
champagne with the gracious "Notre Dame des Vendages."
G
Glass : The flute is the most appropriate glass. With its tulip form, it
displays the color of the Champagne to its best advantage, allows bubbles to
make an elegant ascension, and prevents the aromas from dissipating too quickly.
For total visual pleasure, the glass should be very fine, without color or
markings.
A connoisseur's trick: If your Champagne does not appear to be sufficiently
bubbly, pour a few drops into the glasses and swirl them around to cover and
moisten the sides, then empty the glasses. With the "impurities" now removed
from the sides of the glasses, the bubbles will develop fully.
Graft: Why graft? Phylloxera - an insect which feeds on the sap of vine roots -
destroyed almost all European vines (known as "Vitis Vinifera") at the end of
the 19th century. Winegrowers had recourse to only one solution: grafting
European varieties on rootstock native to America that was resistant to
Phylloxera.
The grafting of herbaceous cuttings: a new technique of production of young
vines developed by the INRA (Institut National De la Recherche Agronomique) and
by Mumm. Thanks to greenhouse cultivation, the grafted plants are guaranteed to
be virus-free; they have better-developed root systems, and better fusion of
grafts to rootstock. This technique, based on herbaceous plants and applicable
throughout the year, makes it possible to obtain production at more important
levels and more rapidly than by the traditional grafting method.
Grape varietals (Cépages): Over a long span of time, three grape varietals -
three types of grape vines - have proven to be best adapted to Champagne's
climate and soil: Chardonnay (white grapes), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (black
grapes).
From their differences are created the myriad flavors of Champagnes.
Grape varieties are improved by means of clonal selection: within each grape
variety (cépage), certain plant specimens are found to display distinctive
characteristics. These plants, such as those which display disease resistance,
are rigorously selected to become clones. Since 1972, Mumm has actively employed
clonal selection for the 3 champagne grape varieties; only the best selections
are planted in the vineyards.
Grapevines: In Champagne, vines are planted by hand or by machine. It is only in
the third year after planting that the vine will begin to produce grapes, and
the life span of the vine ranges from 27 to 50 years. The spacing between two
vine plants and two rows of plants is strictly controlled by law: 1 meter
between rows and 1.10 to 1.30 m between vine plants.
The average density is close to 9,000 vine plants per hectare.
Planting requires a great deal of care: the year before, the ground must be
prepared:
Ground turned in depth
Clods of earth broken up
Addition of mineral and natural fertilizers.
(See pruning)
Origins of the grapevine:
Homo Sapiens:
Gathering grapes in their wild state 30,000 B.C.
According to the Bible: Noah, the first wine grower
Asia Minor - Black Sea 9,000 B.C.
Egypt 3,000 B.C.
Greece, Mediterranean Sea 2,000 B.C.
Italy (Romans) 900 B.C.
Southern Gaul
Rapidly prosperous 600 B.C.
Burgundy / Moselle 200 A.D.
Champagne End 3rd century A.D.
The grapevine in France:
South of France (Introduction by Romans)
Rapidly prosperous . 600 B.C
Over-production of wine, penury of wheat:
Decree of Emperor Domitien ordering vineyards to be torn up 97 A.D.
Decree of Emperor Probus authorizing replanting of vineyards.
Development of vines in:
Burgundy
Moselle
Champagne 285 A.D.
Growth : Growth, or "cru," stands for a precise vineyard or commune in which a
vine is cultivated. There are 3 categories of crus (growths): the "Grands Crus
Classés," (Classified Great Growths) classified on a rating scale at 100%. Only
17 crus qualify for this rating, representing only 14.5% of the appellation zone
of the Champagne vineyards. The grapes cultivated there are the best, and the
wines obtained there are the finest. Following them in the classification scale
are 43 "Premiers Crus" (First Growths) ranking between 99% and 90%. The
remaining 242 villages belong to a peripheral category of "crus" (growths)
ranked at between 89% and 80%.
(See Scale of crus).
Gyropalettes : Today, riddling is carried out more and more automatically.
Bottles are no longer placed on racks, but on automatic riddling machines called
gyropalettes, themselves attached to pivoting bases. They are
computer-controlled and programmed to tilt and turn the bottles at regular
intervals, just as the cellarman would do by hand. Automatic riddling lasts one
week.
(See riddling)
H
Harvests : Harvests traditionally take place 97 days after full flowering (give
or take 9 days), in September or October. The start date is determined by the
C.I.V.C. (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) and the growers when
the right balance between the sugar content and acidity is reached (160g of
sugar and 9g of acid per liter). The picking lasts about three weeks and must be
done by hand. Harvest yield is limited by regulation each year as a function of
the quality of the harvest.
I
ISO 9002
Quality is a permanent and shared objective at Mumm, not an idle dream. Our
customers are unanimous in their testimony.
Mumm imposes strict standards upon itself in a constant effort to achieve
perfection. ISO 9002 is a framework for action that defines the different stages
of an effective quality control system. The level of quality is not determined
by the standard, but by G.H. Mumm & Cie itself based on regulations and the
requirements of its clients. In 1995, ISO 9002 certification was obtained, a
true passport to quality.
Mumm thus became the first large global exporter of the Syndicat des Grandes
Marques de Champagne to obtain ISO 9022 certification.
From general philosophy to reality, several concrete examples:
No defects in the wines which constitute our blends;
Continuity in the "style" of the product (the sensory description of the style
is the object of a research program).
Greater demands made on our suppliers, including cork suppliers, bottle makers,
carton makers, printers…
One element stands out in terms of the scale in which control is applied: the
control of corks. Before a batch of corks is accepted, 200 bottles of Champagne
are corked with corks from that batch. After 6 weeks- the time required for the
wine to develop a cork taste - the 200 bottles are tasted by our wine tasters in
the presence of the supplier. If more than 3 bottles with the taste of cork are
detected, the batch is rejected. This extremely severe and expensive quality
control enabled us to greatly reduce the production of bottles with a taste of
cork, to the great satisfaction of our customers.
Control of labels and seals upon receipt (the color of the Cordon Rouge, for
example, must correspond to a well-defined triptych of color).
Production line measurement of label application, etc.
L
Label :
The label of a Champagne bottle is the bottle's signature.
Obligatory features:
The word "Champagne" in capital letters.
Champagne is the only AOC wine which does not need the AOC mention on the label.
The name of vintner either in full or mentioned by its CIVC registration code
preceded by initials providing information on the statute of the producer. (See
producer)
The trade name or the name of the cuvée.
The place where the Champagne was made and the country of origin.
The contents of the bottle (ex. 750 ml, the standard Champagne bottle),
the "e," an EC guarantee of volume.
The Champagne quality as a function of its dosage: Brut, Sec, Demi-sec.
The degree of alcohol.
The vintage year when the wine is the product of an exceptional year.
Labeling and sealing : This operation consists of dressing up the bottles in all
their finery (label, flange…). In 1996, Mumm installed a new very precise and
highly specialized labeling and sealing line. A second line devoted to special
bottles is scheduled to start activity in 1999.
(See label)
Laths: The method of storing bottles in the cellars:
Bottles are stacked horizontally, in such a way that they constitute a wall of
bottles.
Lyre: The northern location of the champagne vineyards leads to great
variability in grape production, both in terms of quality and in quantity. With
the agreement of the INAO and the CIVC, Mumm is conducting research on new
methods of trellising, called the "lyre" method, which was initiated in 1987.
M
Malolactic fermentation: This refers to a biological micro-process carried out
by bacteria which transform the malic acid of the wine into lactic acid and
carbon dioxide.
The generally unfavorable climatic conditions in Champagne lead to a level of
acidity in the wine which is too high.
Without intervention, the wine obtained after the first fermentation would be
too nervy: another fermentation is necessary, known as "malolactic
fermentation." Behind this complicated name is a biological micro-process to
reduce the acidity of the wine, making it smoother and guaranteeing its future
stability.
Montagne de Reims : A broad plateau, little relief, gently sloping towards the
river valleys of the Vesle and the Ardre to the north, and the Marne to the
south.
Grapevines abundantly cover the sides of this plateau, with Pinot Noir the
dominant variety. It includes 9 Grands Crus Classés (Classified Great Growths)
at 100% on the rating scale of growths: Ambonnay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Bouzy,
Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Puisieulx, Sillery, Verzenay, and Verzy.
Must: The first juice of harvested grapes obtained by pressing.
(See pressing)
P
Pinot Meunier (freshness and fruitiness): As opposed to Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir, Pinot Meunier is not planted in Grand Crus communes. It is a black grape
variety that gives white juice, but less noble than the other two, and
represents 36% of the total Champagne vineyard. It is found principally in the
Marne Valley and in the Aude district. Because it buds late, it is more
resistant to frost than the Pinot Noir. Its bunches are compact and its leaves
covered with a light down. It gives freshness and fruitiness to the wine, and
contributes to its balance.
Pinot Noir (power) : The Pinot Noir grows principally on the Montagne de Reims,
especially in the Grands Crus communes. This black grape variety represents 37%
of the total Champagne vineyard and 51% of the cultivated surface of Grands
Crus. Pinot Noir is also the grape variety of the red Grands Crus of Burgundy.
It is easily identified by its shiny, lightly serrated green leaves, and by its
triangular bunches of grapes. Pinot Noir is sensitive to frost and prone to rot,
preferring dry, light soils. It gives body, power, and longevity to the wine.
Pressing:
Gently does it
The grapes are pressed immediately after the harvest, cru by cru, variety by
variety. Pressing is a delicate operation and very carefully regulated by law.
The aim is to produce a clear, white juice from the black grapes (Pinot Noir and
Pinot Meunier), hence the need for gentle pressing in order to extract the juice
without extracting color from the skin. Therefore, complete bunches of grapes
are very slowly pressed, at low pressure (1kg/cm_). The regulated volume of one
pressing is 4,000 kg of grapes that gives 2,550 liters of must, or juice.
The first pressing is the best.
The first pressing, known as the "cuvée," produces 2,050 liters of juice from
4,000 kg of grapes. This juice is the richest in sugar, has the most acid, and
is the best. It serves as the basis for the best Champagnes.
The second pressing, known as the "taille" produces 500 liters of juice with a
lower acid content, and a wine of lower quality.
Regulations that lowered yields were adopted in 1992. Up to that date, 100
liters of juice could be extracted from 150 kg of grapes. Today, 160 kg of
grapes are required for the same 100 liters of juice.
The direct consequence of this measure to improve quality is that the poorer
quality musts are eliminated, in particular the third pressing (the second
"taille").
Grapes redistributed inside the presses manually between each pressing on this
type of press so that the skins and stems are not shredded up, which would
negatively affect quality.
Why separate the first pressing from the second?
The quality of a wine, its body, freshness, and longevity, comes from the
concentration of sugars, tartaric and malic acids. On the other hand, excess
levels of potassium or phenol compounds (coloring elements concentrated at the
periphery of the grape) lead to poorer levels of quality: fragility, lack of
finesse, astringency.
The aim of the Champagne method of pressing is to extract the components such as
they exist in the pulp.
When the grape is crushed at very low pressure:
The must obtained first is from the intermediate zone of the grape.
Then, the central zone of the grape yields its juice.
Finally, must is obtained from the skin of the grape.
The must extracted from the first pressing or cuvée thus comes from the
intermediate zone and will be of a higher quality than that of the second
pressing or "taille".
The "cuvée" and the "taille" are therefore fermented separately.
Settling: After pressing, the must is left to "rest" for 12 to 20 hours at a
temperature ranging from 14 to 18 °C, so that the remains of skins, pips, bits
of earth and other solid matter settles at the bottom of the vat. Clear must is
then withdrawn and transferred to another vat.
(See pressing)
Pressure: 24 g of sugar per liter of wine are added during the bottle
fermentation (prise de mousse) phase, which will gradually produce 6 atmospheres
of pressure under the effect of carbon dioxide produced by the fermentation.
During the 18th century this pressure was Enemy N° 1 for Champagne producers.
The quantities of sugar to be added were not mastered and the bottles were less
solid than today. The result: series of explosions and a breakage rate of up to
90% of the bottles! It was even not uncommon for the cellars to have a central
gutter to drain away the streams of wine.
Pruning: Pruning the vines enables limitation of the quantity of the harvest, it
provokes better ripening of the grapes, and it increases the quality of the
wine. This operation is very strictly regulated, as there are only four pruning
methods which are authorized in Champagne, which vary according to the type of
grape and the nature of the local soil:
Chablis pruning, for all Chardonnay varieties and sometimes Pinot Noir
Cordon de Royat pruning for Pinot Noir
Guyot and Vallée de la Marne pruning, principally for Pinot Meunier
Only grapes obtained in conformity with these pruning methods qualify for the
Champagne appellation.
(See cultivation calendar)
R
Racks : After having spent several years in a horizontal position, the wine must
be rid of its sediment. To accomplish this, the bottles are placed neck down in
racks called "pupitres." They are then turned slightly every day for several
weeks so that the sediment slips into the neck. This process is called
"remuage," or riddling. The deposit of sediment has become compact and is stuck
up against the stopper in the final stage of the process.
(See riddling)
Reserve wines: Years of big harvests are divine destiny. For this reason, a
certain portion of those harvests is "reserved" to later enter into the blending
of non-vintage wines, in proportions that will vary depending upon the year and
its weather conditions.
(See blending)
Riddling: A manual or automated operation consisting of turning inclined bottles
on a daily basis in order to induce the sediment deposit to consolidate and slip
into the neck of the bottle.
After having spent several years in a horizontal position, the wine must be rid
of its sediment. To accomplish this, the bottles are placed neck down in racks
called "pupitres." They are then turned slightly regularly every day for several
weeks so that the sediment slips into the neck. This process is called
"remuage," or riddling. The deposit of sediment has become compact and is stuck
up against the stopper in the final stage of the process
In the good old days
The traditional method of riddling is one of the images most commonly associated
with Champagne production. The cellarman responsible for this operation - the
riddler - gives a shake to the bottles with a brusque left-to-right movement and
then gives them a 1/8th turn. The operation is repeated every day for a period
of 6 to 8 weeks. During the same period, the bottles are progressively tilted
until they are finally in a top-down vertical position.
At G.H. Mumm, even if Champagne riddling is now mostly automated, the prestige
cuvées and magnums are still riddled by hand. Output is naturally less than when
using gyropalettes, but it is nonetheless impressive: a single riddler can
riddle up to 40,000 bottles a day.
Progress on the march
Today, riddling is becoming more and more automated. The bottles are no longer
placed in "pupitres," but on automatic riddling machines called "gyropalettes,"
which are themselves attached to pivotal bases. The machines are
computer-programmed to tilt and turn the bottles at regular intervals, just as a
riddler would do by hand. The automatic riddling operation lasts one week.
Heads down
After riddling, the bottles are ready for disgorging, but remain in the top-down
position ("sur pointes") in order to definitively consolidate the deposit of
sediment and to fix it to the crown cap, each bottle resting in the hollow of
the bottle underneath.
This enables a buffer stock to be constituted before disgorging, or, in the case
of old vintages, to stop the aging process of the wine to increase its potential
for longevity.
S
Scale of growths:
Each growth is classified from 80 % to 100 % according to:
the sub-soil,
the soil,
the exposure of the slopes,
the maturity of the grapes,
the quality of wines obtained for blending.
This classification guarantees the origin and the quality of the grape. It is
the base on which the price of the grape is calculated.
GROWTHS Scale
%
CRUS Scale
%
MARNE
Allemant noir 85
Chambrecy 83
Allemant blanc 87
Chamery 90
Arcis le Ponsart 82
Champillon 93
Aubilly 82
Champlat Boujacourt 83
Avenay 93
Champvoisy 84
Avize 100
Chantemerle .... noir 85
Ay 100
Chantemerle ....; blanc 87
Barbonne Fayel noir 85
Chatillon sur Marne 86
Barbonne Fayel blanc 87
Chaumuzy 83
Baslieux sous chatillon 84
Chavot Courccourt 88
Bassu 85
Chenay 84
Bassuet 85
Chigny les roses 94
Baye 85
Chouilly noir 95
Beaumont sur vesle 100
Chouilly blanc 100
Beaunay 85
Coizad Joches 85
Belval sous Chatillon 84
Coligny noir 87
Bergères les vertus 95
Coligny blanc 90
Bergères sous Montmirail 82
Congy 85
Berru 84
Cormicy 83
Bethon.... Noir 85
Cormontreuil 94
Bethon.....Blanc 87
Cormoyeux 85
Bezannes 90
Coulomnes la montagne 89
Billy le grand 95
Courcelles Sapicourt 83
Binson Orquigny 86
Courjeonnet 85
Bisseuil 95
Courmas 87
Bligny 83
Courtagnon 82
Bouilly 86
Courthiezy 83
Bouleuse 82
Courville 82
Boursault 84
Couvrot 84
Bouzy 100
Cramant 100
Branscourt 86
Crugny 86
Breuil (Le) 83
Cuchery 84
Brimont 83
Cuis noir 90
Brouillet 86
Cuis blanc 95
Broussy le Grand 84
Cuisles 86
Broyes.....noir 85
Cumières 93
Broyes ....blanc 87
Damery 89
Brugny Vaudancourt 86
Dizy 95
Cauroy les Hermonville 83
Dormans (try, vassy, vassieux, chavenay) 83
Celle s Chantemerle (la) noir 85
Ecueil 90
Celle s Chantemerle (la) blanc 87
Epernay 88
Cernay les Reims 85
Etoges 85
Cerseuil 84
Etrechy noir 87
Chalons sur Vesle 84
Etrechy blanc 90
CRUS Scale
%
CRUS Scale
%
Faverolles 86
Morangis 84
Ferebrianges 85
Moslins 84
Festigny 84
Moussy 88
Fleury la rivière 85
Mutigny 93
Fontaine Denis noir 85
Nanteuil la forêt 82
Fontaine Denis blanc 87
Nestle le repons 84
Germiny 85
La Neuville aux Larris 84
Givry les Loisy 85
Nogent l'abbesse 87
Grauves noir 90
Oeuilly 84
Grauves blanc 95
Oger 100
Gueux 85
Oiry 100
Hautvillers 93
Olizy Violaine 84
Hermonville 84
Orbais l'abbaye 82
Hourges 86
Ormes 85
Igny Comblizy 83
Oyes 85
Janvry 85
Pargny les Reims 90
Jonchery sur Vesle 84
Passy Grigny 84
Jonquery 84
Pévy 84
Jouy les Reims 90
Pierry 90
Lagery 86
Poilly 83
Leuvrigny 84
Pontfaverger 84
Lhéry 86
Port à Binson 84
Lisse en Champagne 84
Pouillon 84
Loisy en Brie 85
Pourcy 84
Louvois 100
Prouilly 84
Ludes 94
Puisieulx 100
Mailly Champagne 100
Reims 88
Mancy 88
Reuil 86
Mardeuil 84
Rilly la montagne 94
Mareuil le Port 84
Romery 85
Mareuil sur Ay 99
Romigny 82
Marfaux 84
Rosnay 83
Merfy 84
Sacy 90
Méry Premecy 82
St Amand sur Fion 84
Les Mesneux 90
Sainte Euphraise 86
Le Mesnil le Hutier 84
Sainte Gemme 84
Le Mesnil sur Oger 100
Saint Gilles 82
Mondement 84
Saint Lumier 85
Montbré 94
St Martin d'Arbois 86
Montgenost noir 85
St Thierry 87
Montgenost blanc 87
Sarcy 83
Monthelon 88
Saudoy noir 85
Montigny ss Chatillon 86
Saudoy blanc 87
Montingy sur Vesle 84
Savigny sur Ardre 86
CRUS Scale
%
CRUS Scale
%
Selles 84
Vinay 86
Sermiers 89
Vincelles 86
Serzy et Prin 86
Vindey noir 85
Sézanne noir 85
Vindey blanc 87
Sézanne blanc 87
Voipreux 95
Sillery 100
Vitry en perthois 85
Soilly 83
Vrigny 89
Soulières 85
Marne (autres crus) 80
Taissy 94
Talus Saint Prix 85
Tauxières 99
Thil 84
Tours sur Marne noir 100
Tours sur Marne blanc 90
Tramery 86
AISNE
Trépail 95
Treslon 86
CANTON DE CONDE
Trigny 84
SUR BRIE
Trois Puits 94
Troissy 84
Barzy sur Marne 85
Unchair 86
Passy sur Marne 85
Val de Vièvre 84
Trélou sur Marne 85
Vanault le Chatel 84
Autres crus du canton 83
Vandeuil 86
Vandières 86
Autres crus de l'Aisne 80
Vauciennes 84
Vaudemanges 95
Vavray le grand 84
AUBE
Vavray le petit 84
Venteuil 89
Villenauxe la grand noir 85
Verneuil 86
Villenaux la grande blanc 87
Vert Toulon 85
Vertus 95
Autres crus de l'Aube 80
Verzenay 100
Verzy 100
Villedommange 90
Ville en Tardenois 82
Villeneuve Renneville 95
Villers Allerand 90
Villers aux noeuds 90
Villers Franqueux 84
Villers Marmery 95
Villers sous Chatillon 86
Villevenard 85
Second pressing: The second pressing - the "taille" - yields 500 liters of less
acidic juice, which will give a wine of lesser finesse.
(See pressing)
Sensory analysis :
1. SENSORY ANALYSIS AT MUMM CORDON ROUGE
Since 1994, Mumm Cordon Rouge has developed a sensory analysis program, in order
to characterize our different cuvées, to control quality and to distinguish our
champagnes from the champagnes of our competitors.
Sensory analysis is the study of the different properties of a product evaluated
by our five senses. It consists of methods which allow us to define all the
characteristics of a food product or a wine.
Traditional wine tasting methods have been used for a long time at Mumm Cordon
Rouge, but a few years ago we felt that it was necessary to improve our tasting
through a more scientific approach. Sensory analysis brought rigor, efficiency,
objectivity and reliability to the description of our champagnes.
2. THE LIMITS OF PHYSIO-CHEMICAL ANALYSIS
To understand what wine is, several methods exist, included physio-chemical
analysis. We usually measure the wine's pH, acidity level, sugar, and alcohol
content, as well as the presence of different substances. With the help of more
sophisticated techniques such as gas chromatography and spectrometry, we can
identify the presence of molecules which lend a variety of aromas to wine.
Though it is easy to obtain objective values through analysis, it is very
difficult to understand exactly what these represent. It is sometimes hard to
link a substance identified to a described aroma. The results we get from
physio-chemical analysis are, then, far different from consumers' impressions.
This is why we have also decided to use sensory analysis to study champagne
wines.
3. THE FIVE SENSES
Our five senses are the instruments of sensory analysis. We use our five senses
to analyze and to appreciate what we eat and drink.
Hearing helps to evaluate different factors related to sound. This might be very
important for a crunchy apple or for a chips. It is also involved when you open
a champagne bottle.
Vision allows for the description of all the visual aspects of a product, i.e.,
its color, its density, its fluidity, etc. In the case of Champagne, color,
limpidity and effervescence are important quality factors. But up to now we
hadn't worked on these parameters, for they are quite difficult to evaluate and
to standardize.
Smell is the sense related to the perception of odors. It is the most important
sense for the perception of wine quality. In developing our program, we paid a
lot of attention to the olfactory perception of our products.
Then comes taste. It is the sense related to the perception of the four basic
tastes which are:
· Sweetness, which is perceived at the point of the tongue,
· Acidity, which is perceived on the sides of the tongue,
· Bitterness is the feeling you may have after swallowing, because the cells
sensitive to bitterness are at the end of the tongue. For instance, bitterness
is what you feel when you drink coffee without sugar.
· The last taste, which is not normally used for wine, is saltiness. It is also
perceived on the sides of the tongue, close to the end of the mouth.
We might add to these basic tastes other perceptions that we feel in the mouth,
like astringency from tannins, or roundness, body, balance or the length of the
after-taste.
4. The Five Senses
Sight
Olfaction
Taste
Hearing
Touch
5. TRAINED EXPERT WINE TASTERS
For our sensory analysis program, it is very important to have an outstanding
and reliable group of assessors. Twenty persons from our company take part in
our program. We use a group of persons, because a single person cannot be highly
sensitive to all aromas. Everyone has different thresholds for each sensation,
and the use of a group allows us to avoid wide variations due to individual
characteristics. Tasting experts and beginners alike took the same training
course.
They were trained for six months in order to recognize and evaluate the specific
aromas and tastes of champagne. Naturally, before being able to identify an
aroma, one must recognize and memorize it. The tasting group then meets twice
annually for eight-week sessions, with two tastings per week.
So we have spent considerable time on the recognition of aromas. The same work
was carried out for the recognition of savors.
6. AROMAS
Aromas and tastes are the root of wine description. Though there are only a few
basic tastes, a great number of aromas may be identified in champagne.
Many aromas are present in wine, for instance, red fruits in red wines, lemon,
flowers and honey in white wines, caramel and "animal" notes in aged wines,
woodiness in the wines matured in oak barrels, etc.
Each type of wine has its own aromatic world, and it was very important for us
to discover the specific aromatic "palette" of champagne, and to find a
reference for each aroma. For instance, we might notice that the lemon aroma in
a Burgundy chardonnay is slightly different from the lemon aroma found in
champagne.
But, it is not possible to recognize and to name an aroma, if you have not
previously learned it. Hence, the first step in our program was to teach the
assessors to name certain smells.
That is why we trained our panel by using a collection of aromas. We built it by
trying to find substances whose smell resembles each aroma found in champagne.
We now have 120 references for aromas which allow us to describe most of the
aromas found in champagne.
We are continually building this collection, to improve the equation of the
substances with the smells. It is very important to have specific references for
champagne aromas.
7. SENSORY ANALYSIS: THE LIST OF ATTRIBUTES
We built our list of attributes during the training course of the Mumm Cordon
Rouge tasting team.
First, we spent a good deal of time tasting many champagnes in order to
establish the vocabulary describing the aromas and tastes. More than 250 words
were found.
Then, we eliminated all the words that did not specifically describe champagne
wines in a precise and clear manner. For instance, we eliminated all "sensual"
descriptors, such as pleasant, elegant, fine, etc., or imprecise terms such as
fresh, heavy, fleshy, or descriptors whose meanings were too close, such as
grapefruit and lemon, hazelnut and almond.
About 250 terms were found after this first choice. Then by tasting, through
consensus and statistical analysis, we reduced the number of these words to
obtain a list of 21 descriptors and a complementary list of three per taster, to
make 24 in all. The number of descriptors was limited intentionally, in order to
facilitate their memorization. For each term, we have a specific reference and a
clear definition, to avoid any mis-interpretation of the word.
Our list is composed of olfactory and tasting terms.
The first group of terms refers to fruit aromas, like lemon, apple, ripe fruits,
tropical fruits, fruity, etc. We also introduced the flowery and herbaceous
aromas. We called the latter green, cut grass.
The second main group is composed of aromas related to aging wine, such as
toasted, roasted, buttery, caramel, vanilla, animal, leather, etc.
The third group is made of specific terms like spicy, undergrowth, dusty,
fermented and rubbery.
Concerning the tasting terms, we introduced three basic terms, i.e., acid,
bitter and sweet, as well as two terms more which are specific to wine: balance
and length.
8. SHARED LIST OF 21 ATTRIBUTES
Lemon and citrus: a mixture of lemon/grapefruit
Apple: green apple, ethanal
Ripe fruits: ripe apples and pears
Tropical fruits: a mixture of mango, pineapple, passion fruit, etc.
Fruity: a mixture of ripe fruits (other than those listed above)
Floral: bouquet of white flowers
Green: herbacious, fresh cut grass
Toasty: toasted bread, roasted coffee, brioche
Fresh butter
Caramel, vanilla
Animal: Animal, leather
Spicy: Spicy, peppery, cinnamon, nutmeg
Underbrush: humid underbrush, moss
Dusty, moldy
Ferment: yeasty
Rubber
Acid
Bitter
Sweet
Balanced
Length
Complementary list (choice of three)
Dried fruit
Hazelnut
Woody
Honey
Lactic (milk)
Astringent
Silver spoon: It's official: a small silver spoon has absolutely no effect on
the conservation of champagne in an open bottle. Specialists have studied the
question and have demonstrated that there is no difference between bottles kept
with and without the magic accessory! If you wish to keep your champagne 2 to 3
days, it is preferable to use a hermetic stopper that retains the gas in the
bottle; they are carried by the majority of good wine merchants.
Spring frosts: The fight against the whims of nature.
Champagne is located at the northern limit for the cultivation of vines, and is
subjected to sometimes-extreme climatic conditions causing important damage.
Spring frosts are among the whims of the weather which can destroy the vine buds
in April and May. Since 1951 Mumm has made large investments in protection
against Spring frosts, and has perfected the Haltogel heating systems.
Sub-soil : The top soil in Champagne is a thin layer of chalky clay which covers
a sub-soil of chalk deposited by the sea during the secondary era. The chalk
sub-soil is of utmost importance, since its porous nature permits moisture to be
conserved and its white color reflects heat, leading to the big differences in
temperature between day and night. It is from these characteristics that the
wine gets its finesse and elegance.
T
Tasting :
Golden straw, ripe peach, points of white flowers, brioche… The taste of
Champagne wakes up the senses, challenges the imagination, and transports one to
the realm of associations, rich in color and in fragrance. The chronology of a
rare moment:
A great Champagne is tasted first with the eyes.
Slowly, the champagne flows along the side of glass and reveals its color in the
light. First of all appreciate his limpidity, its transparency; judge the wine
to be crystal-like, brilliant, clear. Then evaluate the density of its color,
ranging from pale yellow to amber according to the composition and the age of
the Champagne. The final test will be that of the foam, its abundance, its
persistence in the glass, and of the finesse of the bubbles, rising in straight
and regular lines to animate the surface, finally ending as strings of pearls
clinging to the sides of the glass.
The first notes of a symphony.
Tasting Champagne is in every way identical to tasting a wine…with one major
exception: the bubbles! The effervescence can indeed act as a "screen;" an
overbearing presence can attack the nose and modify the perception of the
aromas. This is why it is advisable to let the bubbles dissipate slightly and
allow the wine to "open up" before going any further.
The panoply of aromas will then be revealed, as you gently smell the Champagne
for the first time. This first of contact will enable you to appreciate the
character of the cuvée- it may be delicate, classic, powerful or evolved - and
these first impressions will be reinforced, more specific and more definite
aromas will be revealed by a second smell. We can then speak of fruity or floral
notes, vegetal or animal aromas; we can also distinguish primary aromas (evoking
the grape), secondary or tertiary aromas (in the case of prolonged aging).
The harmony of flavors:
Bring the glass to your mouth and concentrate: the aromas previously discovered
are transformed into distinct flavors. Tasting follows a clearly marked path:
the "attack" offers the palate an overall impression, fresh and pleasant; during
the "evolution," the fullness of the Champagne is defined and the flavors become
clearly specified; the "after-taste" allows you to appreciate the persistence of
the flavors.
For the novice, the first tasting notes may not fully capture the richness of
sensation which the Champagne has the power to excite. But little by little,
your powers of analysis will develop and you will learn to recognize and to
identify the flavors that characterize each cuvée…which should be enjoyed, of
course, in moderation.
Recognizing grape varietals:
Chardonnay, if exclusive in a Champagne, generally produces a yellow green or a
golden green color. In the mouth, it offers finesse, elegance, and lightness.
A high proportion of Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier gives light pink glints to the
color. During tasting, the former gives the wine structure and persistence of
flavor; the latter, roundness and balance.
The specialist's vocabulary:
Tasting reveals the acidity of the Champagne, which may be qualified as green,
fresh, lively, supple, or flat.
For the aromas, whether with the nose or on the palate, one can speak of youth
or maturity. They mainly evoke flowers and fruit (red fruits, citrus fruits,
apricots, and pears…) but there can also be the presence of the soil as well as
fragrances of honey, coffee, toast, brioche, or nuts.
The body of Champagne can be defined as structured, full, light, or hollow in
character.
Quality may be judged as elegant, pleasant, typical, or ordinary.
After-taste (the persistence of taste) can be more or less pronounced and long.
Terroir: The definition of "terroir" provided by the O.I.V. (Office
International de la Vigne et du Vin) is as follows: "A defined and designated
combination of soils whose nature, geographic configuration, and climate enable
the production of specific products by the persons who exploit it."
It can be said that the quality of a wine depends upon the manner in which it is
made and cultural practices which enable characteristics of sensory perception
to be expressed that are specific to each grape variety, influenced by
environmental conditions of the soil and climate. The terroir constitutes the
basis of the notion of wine of controlled origin (A.O.C.). Chalk, a continental
climate with oceanic influences, and the three grape varieties (Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier) are characteristics of the Champagne terroir,
which are expressed so differently in each of the Champagne growths.
Topping and trimming : the ends of the vine shoots are clipped in order to limit
development of shadows from one row to another and to prevent leaves from piling
up.
Training: The young shoots of the vine are trained into vertical positions by
attachment between two guide wires so that the leaves obtain maximum exposure to
the sun.
(See cultivation calendar)
Training the shoots: The young shoots of the vine are attached to guide wires.
(See cultivation calendar)
Treatment:
The process of protecting the vines against insects and fungi.
U
Upside-down storage of bottles: "Pointes":
Top down, heads down, neck down, on the tips…
After the riddling procedure consolidates the deposits and fixes them to the
stopper, the bottles are placed in a neck-down position with each bottle resting
in the hollow of the bottle underneath. For old vintage wines, this also allows
the aging of the wine to be stopped and thus ensure greater longevity.
(See riddling)
V
Vallée de la Marne (Marne Valley): One of the zones of the Champagne vineyards
which extends over a hundred kilometers to the west of Epernay, along the Marne
river. The grape variety, principally Pinot Meunier, is spread over the hills
which slope gently down to the banks of the Marne. The Vallée de la Marne
includes two Grands Crus that are ranked at 100% on the scale of growths: Ay and
Tours sur Marne.
Vat Hall:
A constant quest for quality.
As soon as they are received at Mumm, different growths are kept separate and
they are vinified in separate vats: the qualities specific to each growth are
thus perfectly respected.
In the same manner, after fermentation, all wines will be kept separately in new
vats with specifications of their sources (growths) and their composition (type
of vine).
Controlled temperature
Important rises in temperature could cause fermentation to be halted and lead to
a deterioration of the aromas of the wines. For these reasons, at Mumm, the vats
are maintained at a constant temperature of 16 to 20 °C during fermentation.
Vinification (Wine making): The phase of transforming the grape must into wine.
(See alcoholic fermentation)
Vintage Year (Millésime) :
When a harvest proves to be truly exceptional, (as, for example, in 1985, 1988,
1989, 1990, and1995) the decision is taken to produce a vintage year: the blend
will include only wines from that specific year's grape harvest. For this
reason, vintage year wines are all different from each other, as opposed to
vintages which are not identified as a vintage of a specific year and whose
compositions are carefully studied precisely to guarantee constancy of taste
over time.
Vintage Years at Mumm:
1889 1952
1893 1955
1900 1958
1904 1959
1906 1961
1911 1962
1913 1964
1920 1969
1921 1971
1923 1973
1933 1975
1934 1976
1937 1979
1941 1982
1943 1985
1945 1987
1947 1988
1949 1989
1990
1995
1996
1997
1998
Years in bold type correspond to great vintage years.
Up-coming vintage years, not yet marketed.
(See blending)
W
Wine makers:
Number
Trade names
utilized
NM Wine merchant / vintner 262 1,320
ND Wine merchant / distributor 105 148
RM
RC
SR
RM + RC + SR
Champagne maker / vintner
Cooperative winegrowers
Vintner corporation
5,104
3,649
4,015
31
CM Cooperative vintner 44 233
MA Auxiliary trade name 2,994
TOTAL 12,390
Source CIVC 1997
Wine merchant / vintner: purchases harvested grapes, makes Champagne out of the
grapes, sells Champagne under labels with their own names.
262 merchants / vintners own 10% of the vineyards, account for over 70% of the
shipments and more than 90% of the exports.
Wine merchant / distributor: wine merchants who buy and sell the finished
product.
Champagne makers / vintners: winegrowers who conserve part or all of their grape
harvest in order to make their own Champagne and present the finished product
under their own names.
Cooperative winegrowers; winegrowers who obtain partially finished wines or
wines ready for sale from their cooperatives.
Vintner corporation: Company created by several persons of the same family. The
company produces and sells the wines.
Cooperative / vintner: Members cultivate the vines, the cooperative takes charge
of making and selling the wine.
Auxiliary trade name: Trade names registered by wholesale buyers or central
merchandizing organizations. Bottles from different sources (growers, merchants,
and cooperatives) may be sold under the same label.
Wine press: The 7 winepress centers of the House of Mumm, equipped with 29
traditional vertical presses, are located in the heart of the Champagne
vineyards: in Avize, Cramant, Bouzy, Verzy, Verzenay, Mailly, and Savigny.
The decentralization of pressing ensures that the grapes will not suffer from
prolonged transport to the presses.
The grapes of our winegrower partners are pressed under the supervision of Mumm
technicians at the pressing centers.
(See Pressing)
Wire-cap: A metallic reinforcement that holds the cork and metal capsule in
place. They often become collectors' items.
Chilling phase or stabilization by refrigeration
Once the blending has been accomplished, the wine is chilled to a temperature of
-4°C for several days to eliminate excess tartaric acid (a natural acid in wine)
by crystallization. The crystals are separated and the wine clarified by means
of filtration.
Without taking these precautions, there would be the danger of calcium and
bitartrate of potassium bitartrate crystals forming when the Champagne is
exposed to the cold: (harmless, but unpleasant).
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