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Champage
ALAYA CHAMPAGNE
The "pressurage" (pressing)
Coming in straight from the harvest, the grapes are poured into the presses to
yield their juice, also known as "must". They will be slowly pressed over about
a three and a half hour period.
The first pressing, known as the "cuvée" yields 2,050 litres of a very hight
quality must. The second pressing, known as the "taille" yields an additional
500 litres. AYALA does not use the "taille".
The old "pressoir" (wine press)
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AYALA owns three presses of the classic type (vertical pressure). They are kept
in a presshouse adjoining the Château de Mareuil. Here the pressing of the
house's own grapes from its vineyards in Mareuil s/Aÿ, as well as those of
several local growers, are carried out.
The "vinification" (winemaking)
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The old mixing barrel. The alcoholic fermentation - the transformation of sugar
into alcohol - takes place first and is immediately followed by the malolactic
fermentation which reduces any possible excessive acidity in the wine. While
this is a perfectly natural process, that does not mean it is not perfectly
controlled. Thus what the wines lose in acidity, they gain in suppleness. The
total tank capacity of AYALA is about 11,000 hl. The blending of the still wines
is performed several months later, once the wine has become clear enough.
The "cuvée" (blending)
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For Jean-Michel DUCELLIER, the blend is primarily a matter of buying grapes from
different vineyards, each chosen for their own specific features, and which,
when brought together, will fully express the character and style of the House.
Blending consists of creating the different "cuvées" that make up the House's
range of champagnes. Here lies the fundamental role of the négociant, for the
product line will bear his name.
A characteristic and consistent style is achieved by blending wines from
different harvests. The House's range of champagne goes from the "demi-sec"
(semi-dry) to the "prestige cuvée" by way of the "non-vintage brut".
The making of a "millésimé" or vintage champagne is decided here, if the year
has been especially good. In the case of a vintage champagne, only wines from
the same harvest, and only from the finest vineyards, will be blended.
The "tirage" (bottling)
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This is the essential factor in the "champagne method" a second fermentation in
the definitve bottle. After bottling at the end of Winter, the still wine slowly
becomes sparkling due to the combined action of a mixture of sugar and yeast
added to the wine just before bottling.
The bottles are then stacked "sur lattes" (on slats) on their sides in the 18
metre deep cool cellars of Champagne with a constant natural temperature of 11°.
A second and much slower fermentation will then take place within the sealed
bottles. The longer this fermentation is allowed to take, the finer and more
persistent will be the bubbles, the very bubbles that are champagne's charm.
The "entreillage" (stacking) of the bottles is still done by hand at AYALA, as
it has always been.
The "remuage" (riddling)
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During the second fermentation in the bottle, as the yeast cells die, they will
form a sediment, known as "lies" (lees). They cloud the wine, and are often so
fine that they only precipitate with difficulty. These sediments must be
eliminated. Special bottle racks (pupitres) were thus created to solve this
problem, but workers were needed to manipulate the bottles : it takes time and
practice to learn the effective "coup de poignet" (twist of the wrist).
The sediments are loosened and released from the inner surface of the bottle
with a double rotation first to the left and then to the right. The bottle is
tilted increasingly (neck down) over the course of the riddling thanks to the "pupitre",
thus the lees are brought to the neck of the bottle.
The "riddlers" are kept busy for three months and each of them may manipulate up
to 60,000 bottles per day. Machines now exist to do the worker's job... but
AYALA carries on by hand.
The "dégorgement" (disgorgement)
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Riddling on "pupitres" is done in the traditional
way at AYALA. It takes place only several weeks before delivery. After the necks
have been frozen, trapping the sediments in a chunk of ice, the bottles are
opened and the sediments are expelled with the ice by the pressure in the
bottle. A small amount of still Champagne wine and cane sugar is then added to
top up. At AYALA this "dosage" is 0.75% for the "bruts" - vintage and
non-vintage, and 5% for the "demi-sec". The tendency nowadays is for lighter and
lighter dosages.
The "stockage" (Aging)
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The "stockage" of champagne always takes place in its definitive bottle. The law
obliges the Houses to age their non-vintage champagnes for one year in bottle,
in contact with the lees, prior to disgorgement. This period is extended to
three years in the case of vintage champagnes.
The House of AYALA doesn't content itself with these minimums. Indeed, its
non-vintage brut spends 2 and a half years in bottle prior to disgorgement, and
its vintages about 5 years. Because of these lengthy aging periods, at any one
time there is a stock of some three million bottles in AYALA's cellars.
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